Ikat Warp
MAKING THE WARP
The WARP is 154 ends, 2 ply Maine Alpaca. I added one thread at a time to the warping board, so each these was kept next to it’s neighbor thread. The warp contains three distinct patterns and was made in three individual sections; A was 90 ends, B was 50, and the third E for edge, was 14 ends.
WEFT is 2 ply silk, dyed to match.
ENDS PER INCH - 24 EPI LENGTH - 2 1/2 yards WIDTH in reed - 9” DYING THE WARP I folded each or the three warp sections separately, into thirds or fourths and used blocks of wood, A, tongue depressors, B and popsicle, E, as a resist by placing wood on either side of the warp sections and wrapping rubber bands tightly around either end of the wood. This prevents, or resists, the dye from entering the yarn in those sections.
I left the end of each warp out of the resist to keep the ends solid color and because a few inches will be lost in tying on the loom.
The three warps will go into a dye-pot.
The three sections of dyedwarp hanging to dry.
The wood and…
The WARP is 154 ends, 2 ply Maine Alpaca. I added one thread at a time to the warping board, so each these was kept next to it’s neighbor thread. The warp contains three distinct patterns and was made in three individual sections; A was 90 ends, B was 50, and the third E for edge, was 14 ends.
WEFT is 2 ply silk, dyed to match.
ENDS PER INCH - 24 EPI LENGTH - 2 1/2 yards WIDTH in reed - 9” DYING THE WARP I folded each or the three warp sections separately, into thirds or fourths and used blocks of wood, A, tongue depressors, B and popsicle, E, as a resist by placing wood on either side of the warp sections and wrapping rubber bands tightly around either end of the wood. This prevents, or resists, the dye from entering the yarn in those sections.
I left the end of each warp out of the resist to keep the ends solid color and because a few inches will be lost in tying on the loom.
The three warps will go into a dye-pot.
The three sections of dyedwarp hanging to dry.
The wood and…
